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What to do in Porto Rafael

To those who wonder what to do in Porto Rafael, the answer can be: nothing. Waking up here in the morning, opening the eyes with sun rising, which slowly warms amazing panorama of Maddalena Arcipelago, with few boats plowing the sea from afar; turning the gaze on granite rocks sculpted by water and wind, which emerge as prehistoric animals inside Mediterranean scrub; maybe drinking the first coffee of the day, while seated silently under a pergola… can be more than enough..

If you cannot resist the call of the place, the promise of sensory surprises that nature around whispers in your ears, you will discover that from its protected and privileged position, Porto Rafael embraces in its surroundings kilometers of beaches that wind along the coast. Among them enchanting Cala Trana, enclosed between two large rocky promontories - Delfini and Punta Don Diego -, protected at its back by sand dunes and Mediterranean scrub. Cala Trana is about 3 kilometers from famous bay of Porto Pollo, known as Isola dei Gabbiani and as paradise for kitesurfers and windsurfers coming from all Europe. Agonists or beginners, they perform on the same water stage, rising in flight with jumps defying gravity law, each with own solitary choreography, but all united like a flock of giant birds twirling synchronously.

Leaving Porto Pollo and the coast by sea, you start meeting the wonders of Maddalena Arcipelago made of pink granite islands - Spargi, Budelli, Razzoli, Caprera, Maddalena, Santo Stefano -, which extends from Porto Rafael to Corsica, the last hiking stop in the island. Arcipelago’s beaches, which can be easily reached by boat, are known all over the world for their fine pink and white sand, which is under important precautionary measures for its protection since years.


We do not pursue describing Arcipelago here, and let these places the chance to reveal themselves approaching them by sea, a unique, powerful experience, able to change the destiny of sensitivest, or more simply of dreamers.

On pink Budelli beach lived isolated from the world unforgettable Mauro, once heading to Polynesia and stumbled upon there by chance after a breakdown while sailing with some friends. One and only inhabitant of the island, for over thirty years his wooden house on the sea was an obligatory stop for tourists and onlookers, fascinated by his extreme existential choice and by the way he safeguarded the ecosystem of the place.


People say he left Budelli for a love affair, but actually he was only tired of all attacks received over the years by those who accused him of expropriation, of living unhealthly, of not being a local islander and much more.


On the contrary, we must hope that Budelli beach remains also in the future the enchanted paradise corner Mauro took care and loved with such passion, leaving us an example of self-denial unrepeatable over time. Thank you, brave man.

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Porto Rafael Real Estate Blog

15 May, 2023
In 1960, when Rafael laid the first stone of his village, Italian television broadcasts one single channel, channel one precisely. In 1961 channels broadcasted become two, followed very shortly by Italian Swiss Television. Since 1971, the new black is receiving at home channels one, two, Switzerland and Koper, strictly in this order.
By Danielle Sassoon 20 Mar, 2023
If after an intense day at the beach you feel nostalgic for the old farmhouse in central Italy where you used to spend summer, and you feel like sipping the excellent wine your grandfather used to get, never been able to drink elsewhere; if today you wish to sit once more under your figs, listening the farmer saying anecdotes about your family, even if always the same and repeated hundreds times; in short, if you would like to swap perfect sunset which stands now in front of Villa Aidan with a less performing sun, when it intertwines with trees and breaks behind the hills, releasing long and shady twilights; well, do not abandon the island. It is our duty to inform you that the farmhouse of your childhood is now surrounded by anonymous residential complexes delimiting city boundaries, which are now close and looming.
By Danielle Sassoon 17 Feb, 2023
Winter, as we know, makes us melancholy. Holidays are a distant memory, and even more distant seems the flight to some beach where forget cold. Among the ones more eager there is a person we’ll call The Type: woman, around 45 years old, living on the continent in an industrialized town. She is married or separated, has two children or none, works in a communication agency or volunteers. She would like to be now on a boat, but the only possible crossing in these gloomy hours is the one navigable on search engines. Her smartphone is waiting for a simple gesture of her fingers to sail anywhere, but today she doesn't feel like pulling up even the anchor of her virtual sea. Maybe is this thick and thin rain, or the night outside despite it's just 5pm. She feels a hundred years old. She types the word "old age" on the phone with the same ambiguous curiosity one may have for a scary movie. First link appears on the screen, and at the same time a stairlift advertisement starts, in which a happy old lady transports
By Danielle Sassoon 17 Feb, 2023
Infrequently, but it does happen, in Porto Rafael people complain about Sardinians, blamed for every single hitch. Owners and tenants when meeting occasionally at the market - one of the best in the area, with an excellent selection of products aimed at Italians and foreigns - by glances and half-words make an appointment at Harry's Bar outside, to talk freely far from the ears of the three market owners: Grazietta, Ilaria and Giulia. Once the shopping is over, while Ilaria has just finished advising an uncertain English lady on the best oil to buy, here come vacationers by groups of two or three, go ordering a cappuccino to Diego (over which there would also be a lot to say, but he is from Rome, and for the moment he will be spared).
By Danielle Sassoon 03 Jan, 2023
If you too have been scolded all your life for having your "head in the clouds", and always been exhorted to remain firmly planted on ground and walk quickly towards objectives reachebles only with shoes on your feet, in Porto Rafael you can finally free yourself from ballasts, slowly lifting you up, while an unexpected panorama of life, shapes and colors opens up above and below you. A few inches from ground, when just started your timid ascent, like children disobeying their strict preceptors, you are likely to narrowly miss the head of a cormorant coming out of the sea, with a small fish in his beak, before he resumes his taut flight along water. Funny mix of terrestrial and aquatic nature, cormorant prefers sheltered seas, avoids deep waters even when close to the mainland and rarely moves away from shores. It spends a lot of time on land, perched on rocks, cliffs, sandbars, shipwrecks, poles or bare trees. So don't be offended if he just bless your journey with a long questioning look: he is bar
By Danielle Sassoon 15 Dec, 2022
If you suffer thalassophobia and for this reason shun sea destinations (a fortiori the islands, Sardinia included), but still not disdain idea of cooling off during hottest summer days, from Porto Rafael you can take a reinvigorating excursion along paths and creeks of sweet waters. Over ninety waterways cross Sardinia, among which Tirso, Flumendosa, Coghinas, Cedrino and Taloro rivers.
Dining out in Porto Rafael
By Danielle Sassoon 27 Feb, 2020
Going out to dinner in Porto Rafael is a pleasant alternative to dinners at home, from where you hardly want to go out, but some addresses are really valid for deciding to close the kitchen or to give your private chef a free evening, always assuming he is not taking it personally.
Porto Rafael the other Coast
By Danielle Sassoon 26 Feb, 2020
Even today, for many, Costa Smeralda represents almost everything that is known about Sardinia: Porto Cervo and its coast continue to gather an uninterrupted consensus, which in the long run has made these places very similar to many other so-called elitist destinations, which bended to the globalization of luxury. If it were not for the different landscape details - a sea of rocks, wide sandy beaches, marble quarries, expanses of hills or mountains around - today it is almost impossible to recognize where you are spending a holiday: however far you go the sad surprise, even at the end of the world, is to feel precipitated in a big shopping center, or in the hall of a seven, eight, one hundred star hotel, but identical to a thousand others, with a string of boutiques, jewelereries and shops that could be found everywhere, that are found everywhere.
Porto Rafael, the dream
By Danielle Sassoon 24 Jan, 2020
Porto Rafael, the dream
Porto Rafael, travel notes
By Danielle Sassoon 24 Jan, 2020
Porto Rafael, travel notes
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